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- My PreWarCar
At first count, we made it 63 pre-war cars and a handful of bikes in the RM Sotheby's auction being held on 6 and 7 October at Hershey to coincide with the world famous autojumble, or swap meet as it is known that side of the pond.
The auction line-up has a strong emphasis on significant American marques - twelve Packards, six Fords, five Lincolns, three Chevrolets, two Duesenbergs and so it goes on.
There is only one 1913 Oldsmobile Model 53 and it has an aluminium five-seater body by Rothschild & Co.. Described as 'straight and unblemished' and enjoying a 1940s patina which you can see in the above 'as found' photograph.
Most of the cars display a high standard of restoration, but this 1934 Packard Super Eight Hunting Car has been left alone for the next owner to choose what to do with it. History suggests it was used to transport a pack of hunting dogs - there's certainly plenty of room in the back, and tether rings around the side to secure the animals. The high quality wooden body was built by McAvoy & Son to replace the original le Baron Town Car coachwork and fitted just behind the division partition and extended five feet behind the rear axle. There are two fuel tanks which greatly improves range between fill ups.
To continue with the Oily Rag theme, we cannot resist sharing this 1905 Fabrique Nationale Four-Cylinder with you. Built in Belgium, this 363cc shaft drive four cylinder motor cycle just needs a little recommissioning and off you go! Perhaps stitch the saddle back together first?
It's easy to see why the weekend of Hershey is firmly written in so many peoples' diaries year after year.
Text Robin Batchelor, pictures courtesy RM Sotheby's.
In this episode of the workshop series, we take a look at a fairly common issue seen at many old cars: worn out pins and bushings. In this case the play occurs at the arms that actuate the brake shoes. The same principle counts for leaf spring pins though, for which the same repair method can be used.
The pins are worn on one side because they always rub on that same side while being used. This causes the hole to become oval and the pins diameter to be reduced.
Originally, there is no bushing. Repairing this, the hole in the steel axle part needs to be reamed oversize to be round again and to be able to receive a bushing. For durability, I choose a bronze bushing to be installed. Of course it is also possible to use a steel bushing if desired.
After boring the hole, a bushing can be made to size, but remember to keep the hole in this bushing slightly undersize before pressing it in, as it can shrink a little from pressing and we want to ensure that the hole is round and accurate.
Now we can add new material to the pin itself making use of welding. Or a new one can be made. I choose welding if the pins are still decent enough, which in this case they were. You can use any type of weld you want, I choose mig welding since it's the fastest way in my workshop.
After welding, chuck it in the 4-jaw and check the end of the pin to run concentric with the front, since it can distort a little from welding, it needs to be checked front and rear. Recut the center if needed to accept a live center and start cutting the weld to original size.
Then measure the final size, ream the bushing installed in the axle some 0,05mm to 0,10mm oversize to avoid binding and accept grease and the part is done.
Photos of this operation can be viewed in my photo album here (click).
Work, photos and text by Jos van Genugten.
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