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Drawing artist Lilian Stephanie Cooper is a keen follower of PreWarCar-PostWarClassic. In case you wonder why we can only be honest. Maybe it is not as much due to her deep love for classic cars and possibly has more to do with the fact she's a full niece of the editor. Still it was a very nice surprise to receive a photo with Lilian showing up on the side of a Cooper....oops an Auburn 653 of course. But the car is part of the inventory of Coopers Classics at Adelaide Airport, Australia. Not to be mixed up with Cooper Classics in the USA. Or with the Cooper Classics which has nothing to do with cars and also not a lot with classics except for looks. Finally when arriving at the Cooper Car Company we felt a bit at home again. Much more than with the modern Cooper lookalikes from Bayern. Bye, bye Mrs. Cooper. Enjoy your journey, see you when you're back in Amsterdam!
P.S. Mrs. Cooper is partly covering the ad sign for the event Bay to Birdwood (Sunday 25 September). According to James Nicholls: "...it is in South Australia. They set off from Adelaide and drive to Birdwood which is where the Australian National Motor Museum is located in the Adelaide Hills. I believe it goes through Lobethal near to Birdwood which is where the Australian GP was run in the 1930s and ‘40s."
To those of you who have never visited the great autojumble of "Beaulieu". Please read the following with great attention or you will be in big trouble or with the best scenario, you will have a sunny instead of a fine rainy weekend. When you use an electronic navigation device in your car don't look for Beaulieu! You should look for Beaulieu! The two villages - both lovely situated on the seaside - are not exactly close to each other(click), so beware!
Yet when you wisely don't want to rely on modern electrickery but prefer to ask directions from people in the street be advised that when you pronounce Beaulieu in the correct (French) way you probably either end up somewhere along the river Dordogne. Or you will need to try selling your old car parts to the refined public of the French Riviera.
So in order to land on the greatest autojumble of Europe ... er - of the British Isles - you need to forget everything you know about proper pronuciation and descend to an Anglo-Saxon guttural - basically a mix of Old English & German - which sounds a bit like Bjooh-LEE. If you practice 5 minutes a day over the next week there's a fair chance you'll have an unforgettable weekend in Bjoohlee.
Ifd you find the time, be sure to visit our stand in Red 706/707 for a Meet & Greet with PreWarCar celebrities and a petit rouge. Timing : Saturday 3 September 16.00 hours. Stand R 706/707 (click)
a workshop report by CQ: "Looking at the water outlet of an Amilcar engine, I realised that a part of the flange was corroded so much, water leakage was inescapable. I managed to buy another one; "in original condition" as the french say, but no magnifying glass was needed to see clearly 3 pinholes in a very corroded area.
Contemplating about a repair, I remembered my mother; the many evenings mending my socks under a twilight lamp, even putting a layer of wool on an already thin area. In those years after WW2, spirit revived and bachelors cried: "if there is a hole in your sock, throw them away! "
Having past the bachelor state a long time ago I had to do the repair on this Amilcar part......
For peace of mind, no 2K liquid metal etc. but an "honest" repair ! For sure this water outlet will not contain exotic metals as titanium, magnesium or chrome, so it can be soldered with a so called "SOFT" aluminium solder. Its instruction has to state: "can be used for compositions containing zinc".
Usually these alloys contain for the larger part: Zn, Sn, Al and have a melting point of ± 380 C. The melting point of the water outlet however will be between 450C and 650 C.
The technique is straight forward. As this part is not contamined with oil, "degreasing" by heating it is not needed. The to be soldered area has to be as clean as possible. All oxidised alloy has to be removed by grinding, glass bead blasting or brushing using a clean stainless wire brush.
In this case I used a hard steel round "rose" but in combination with a mill in a Dremel type hand piece.
The whole part is gently heated from the outside with a torch. One can use a propane or acetylene-oxygen torch. Heat the to be soldered area till a soldering rod starts to soften when touching the base metal. The correct temperature is near and when the rod starts to melt when touching the base metal, while playing with the torch flame. When the surrounded base metal starts to "sweat", be careful, do no continue the pre heating.
If the torch is adjustable, try to get a somewhat more blueish flame (reducing flame), means less oxidation. The soldering material when melted will not cover the base natal by itself because of oxidation and surface tension.
With the wire brush or a clean(!) stainless "puddeling" tool, "tin" the area carefully by wetting the surface. If needed, it can be done a few times till all of the area is well tinned (different colour/aspect).The tinned area can now to be covered with a layer of the soldering alloy which will close the holes. Use the puddeling tool to get a bond with the tinned surface. The solder can be shaped with this tool during a short period and surplus can be removed. Let it cool down slowly.
If this is the first time to do this type of soldering try the technique on a scrapped piece of aluminium alloy till you got the feel and confidence to give it a try. Soft soldering is not suitable for stressed connections.
An alternative technique is after having tinned with the aluminium soft soldering rod, fill the area with a normal tin/lead soldering stick (60/40).
If I have to white metal in an all aluminium conrod, I use the old technique of tinning the aluminium with a tin mans tin by using the wire brush technique; a reliable bond between the babbit and the aluminium will be achieved.
You can prevent solder dripping through a hole by covering it from the outside with an exhaust sealing paste. Always use goggles as moist from the air could condensate on the part you are heating and can cause the melted alloy to spit severely.
As I was in the mood, also because of a satisfying result, I continued by restoring the missing rim part of the other water outlet.
Is there something nicer in this world than a good repair........ , on all levels ??"
text & photos by CQ
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Of course you may have seen the result of last weekend's Pebble Beach already. The fabulous 1936 Lanca Astura Pinin Farina that won the overall honours at Pebble Beach Concours already. Still it is a more than average happening that a car that was earlier offered at PreWarCar (in 2010) by one of our long standing advertisers - Hyman Ltd. Classic Cars.
This news reached us yesterday morning :"Hyman Ltd. Classic Cars takes special pride in congratulating Richard Mattei and his 1936 Lancia Astrua Pinin Farina Cabriolet as being selected as the Pebble Beach Concours d'Elegance Best of Show winner! Richard purchased the car from Hyman Ltd and performed a fabulous restoration resulting in the top honors. Congratulations again to Richard and all of the Pebble Beach Concours d'Elegance entrants."
Furthermore we like to thank all people who sent photos after this weekend's call. Special thanks to Nick Channing for sending several very nice shots of the preview at Monterey. He earned himself a PreWarCar polo shirt.
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